• Porcelain Tile: This tile is composed of sand which is fired at high temperature and pressure. Since it isn’t porous, porcelain tile is more water resistant and harder than ceramic, but it is harder to cut. When installing a tile floor, a layer of cement backer board is usually put down over a plywood subfloor to provide a firm, stable surface. A waterproof underlayment membrane like can be substituted for backer board. Made of lightweight polyethylene, the membrane is only 1/8” thick and can be cut easily with a utility knife. When using the membrane: • Cut the membrane to size. • Apply a bed of thin-set without latex additive, and set the tile in it. Tiles can be cut using a hand operated “score and snap” cutter or a motorized wet saw. After the tiles have set, apply grout to the joints using a rubber float. Grout is available in a variety of colors, but darker grout stains less. Stainproof grout is also available. Once the grout has set, apply a grout sealer to the joints to prevent stains from occurring. If grout has already become stained, a grout stain pen can be used to stain the grout a uniform color. To anyone watching the video: Step four, above, when you apply the thin set with the notched trowel, you should use the trowel to create parallel lines, not curvy. When you place the tile down you should press and slightly move the tile back and forth in a motion opposite the parallel lines on the back of the tile. (If you’re facing the tile and your lines are straight up and down, wiggle the tile sideways as you place it.) In this way you will smear the thinset evenly into the ‘tracks’ between the lines. ![]() If you combed the thinset into curvy shapes there will be gaps remaining, and those gap spots can cause cracks when pressure is placed on them. (Imagine a woman’s stiletto heel coming down on a gap instead of solid thinset/tile. The tile will break. • Daniel Steiner Says. I am not sure if this post is still running, however, my boyfriend and I desperately need some help! ![]() AFM Anti-Fracture Membrane kit: Guaranteed 3/8' Crack Suppression; Just Prime Peel and Stick; Works with Ceramic Tile Marble Stone and More; No Curing Time Needed. My tile is bonded to a concrete slab. Why do I have cracks? What is the difference in a mortar bed and cleavage membrane installation and a thinset installation using an anti-fracture membrane? We just put in new cabinets and granite counter top, and are on to redoing the floor. We have now realized that we can’t lay our ceramic tile on the particle board floor. We definitely do not want to remove the cabinets now. Is there anyway to go around this? We heard that a toe kick saw gets the particle board out and we can put down 5/8″ plywood and ditra and then set the tile on that. Would you agree? Would this be strong enough for our ceramic tile? The floor joists are 2×7, 14′ unsupported span, 16″ apart. Thank you so much!!!! • Hannah Says. Hi Charlie, I’ve never heard of floor joists further apart than 24″ on center, you must have quite an impressive subfloor! When applying tile, the subfloor needs to be very firm with no bounce when you jump on it. How to repair the operating system and how to restore the operating system configuration to an earlier point in time in Windows Vista Some 'N' versions of Windows did not come with any Media Player in the first place due to Governments and Politics and imposed restrictions, the EU, and Korea, come to mind. Reinstall windows media player on xp. Control Panel/ Programs and Features/ Turn Windows Features on or off/ Media Features/ Windows Media Player. If it is not ticked, tick it, if it is not listed at all, try the System File Checker. Otherwise, the tile will crack over time due to movement in the floor. That usually calls for the right width and center of floor joists for the span, topped by at least 1 1/8″ of subfloor (that can include a layer 1/2″ cement backer board). Since your framing isn’t the conventional 16″ or 24″ on center, I would go by the bounce test to see how firm the floor is. Good luck with your project! • Charlie Says. If the cement board was screwed or nailed every 6-8″ every 16″ on center with 1/8″ gap between staggered sheets and the joints were taped with fiberglass tape, there should not have been cracks in the floor. Ditra would not help the tiles to slide, but would be a membrane that causes the floor to flex when properly installed. These products, if used exactly according to the manufacturers installation instructions guarantee you that your floor will not crack. A few years ago you were not required to thinset the backerboard down. Today, they want it installed over a bed of thinset. The same goes for the Ditra. • audrey clemons Says. I have been in the tile business for 40 years. A friend has me doing work on his house. His builder did not know he was putting tile flooring on the 2nd floor. If I install hardibacker over thinset, and then the tile, the top step finished height will be much higher than the other steps. This will not meet code. Can I use a liquid waterproof membrane directly over 2 layers of 3/4″ plywood and then install the tumbled 16×16 travertine directly over the membrane? This would solve the code problem • James Says. Hi Mark, Since solid wood flooring is subject to movement due to changes in temperature and humidity along with warping and cupping, the best approach would be to remove the solid wood floor and put down a plywood subfloor followed by cement backer board then tile. The second best approach would be to apply a layer of plywood over the solid wood flooring followed by cement backer board then tile. However, the bathroom floor in the house I bought was tiled three or four years ago with is cement backer board over solid wood flooring, and so far it has held up fine.
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